Sunday, August 10, 2008

Tour de Bourgogne


Inspired by the Tour de France, we decided it was time that we also got a bit revolutionary and did some peddle pushing ourselves. So as the Tour de France was finishing in Paris, we were setting off on a short cycling circuit through the vineyards of Burgundy. I appreciate we are perhaps in a different league to the real Tour de France - but you have to start somewhere right?

The destination for our latest holiday was Beaune a small town in the heart of Burgundy's wine country about 20 mins south of Dijon. So after a nice journey from London by train we were all set for what would prove to be 4 very relaxed days filled with shopping, wine, food and relaxation.

It didn't take us long to work out that in Beaune they are big on wine. Shortly after arriving we were sitting down to a 5 course dinner matched to wines. The restaurant had over 70 wines available by the glass (http://www.bernard-loiseau.com/). For us the food was the highlight here though - two standouts being the truffle and asparagus and an incredible dessert - complete with local sparkling wine poured over it at the table. Yum!

Saturday morning in Beaune is market day - so it was a great chance for us to explore the village properly. The food market was very good - lots of colour - fresh fruits, vegies, cheeses, meat and sweets. Something we hadn't seen as much of elsewhere were stalls with giant spit roasters loaded with whole chickens, small pigs and even rabbit. It all looked soooo good! You would think you were in heaven if you managed to stumble on one of these on your way home from a big night out!?

We also managed to do a bit of shopping picking up a bargain vintage coffee grinder (yes - another one) and a very cool vintage Champagne ice bucket (perhaps a belated travel momento from our trip to Champagne).


Continuing the theme from the night before, the afternoon was spent in a nearby Chateau - Domaine Senard (http://www.domainesenard.com/english/premiere.html) with a three course lunch matched with 8 wines... that's our kinda approach to wine and food matching!? With a fierce thunderstorm raging outside we were treated to a great introduction to the local wines - the whites Chardonnays and reds Pinot Noirs. The evening was spent sitting outside enjoying a balmy Beaune evening.

Sunday - time to get on our bikes. We used a local hire company who were great and lined up a couple of routes for us to cycle round (http://www.detours-in-france.com/). We chose one which went out to the north of Beaune and took us to 5 small villages nearby - including Savigny le Beanue (most famous for its reds) and Aloxe Corton (where we had been the day before). We had a great day cycling along small lanes surrounded by green vines between the villages. The fields of vines were occasionally broken up by spectacular fields of sunflowers in full flower - an amazing sight. Of course the Tour de Bourgogne would not be complete without a spot of wine tasting and so that took us to Chateau l'Ange Gardien (http://chateau-langegardien.com/).

We had a great time here - with Pierre the owner taking us through his whole range - 4 whites, 5 reds, 2 sparkling wines and his cassis. The champagne cocktail - Kir Royale originated in Burgundy, so Pierre also insisted we try one of his here before we left - very nice. He was a great salesman - with claims that each of the wines had some spurious magical qualities which ranged from them being slimming to another which was said to be an aphrodisiac. His wines are made for aging (40 years for the reds) and his whites included an 'Aligote' which is a white variety almost wiped out by phylloxera. Having finished this - we took a break and sat in the sun and enjoyed a picnic in the grounds of the Chateau.
Our time here wasn't all about wine though - so while in Beaune we also checked out the other main tourist attraction of the town - the Hotel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune. This grand Gothic building was originally built to provide care and shelter to the sick and impoverished. Given its purpose it seems ironic so much was spent building this ornate place, but the building and its colourful tiled roof (common throughout Burgundy) is quite a sight.


After 4 days it was time to pack up our shopping, wine and things and hop back on the train to the hustle and bustle of London. Beaune was very pretty place and we could easily spent a few more days cycling around the region if we had the time. Perhaps we will make it back here some day - fingers crossed.





Random wedding - French bride in hot pink wedding dress - different

No comments: