Saturday, May 17, 2008

Cinque Terre - The 5 Lands

More travel with Mum and Dad - this time we flew in to catch up with them as they made their way around Italy.

Michelle and I flew into Pisa and had a night there before we headed up to Cinque Terre. Although we had heard mixed (and mainly uncomplimentary) things about Pisa and its leaning tower - it seemed wrong to be in the city and not visit the tower - so we did.... twice. Once that night - to see it lit up at night - and again the next day as we killed some time before taking the train north. We did so with low expectations - but I think we were pleasantly surprised. Although we didn't go up the tower - it was an interesting sight and quite an unusual design (even leaving aside its angle). And with a small outlay of effort we have now earned the right to say 'we've been there' whenever we eat some tacky Leaning Tower branded pizza or pasta - priceless.

Coincidentally Sanjay and his ladies were also in Pisa also en-route to the Cinque Terre - so we managed to catch-up with them and sample Pisa's nightlife - which seemed to largely revolve around students milling about drinking in piazzas and on the river wall. Like any good student town - Pisa's kebab's did not disappoint - so after a bite and beer it was time to call it a night.

Cinque Terre is about an hour and a half north by train. We met up with Mum and Dad at the train station (where they had come in from Sienna). Unfortunately our train was 'retard' (late), but eventually we got there.

Cinque Terre is a great part of the world. Five old Italian fishing villages perched on the cliffs overlooking the Ligurian Sea. These days the area is a national park - there is not so much fishing and tourism is the main life blood. Having said that the area is still home to old Italians who work the step terraced hills growing artichoke and other vegetables - and most impressively.... wine!

Manarola - our place is the bright yellow one on the cliff
We were based in the second village in - Manarola. It was probably one of the smaller and quieter towns - but I would highly recommend it. The directions to our accommodation were to walk to the end of the street and our house was the 'last one before the sea'
(http://www.arpaiu.com/english.html). The instructions were no exaggerations - we were perched right on the edge of the cliff with spectacular views and an great terrace from which to enjoy a glass of wine and the sunsets in the evening.

"This retirement caper is not so bad after all"

By the time we got settled in we really only had 2 1/2 days in the area. Days were a mix of walking along the coastal walk that joins the 5 towns and relaxing and soaking up the sun. Despite the decline of fishing here, there was no shortage of great seafood - so dinners were protein packed seafood extravaganzas - washed down with a little bit of the local white wine.

On the walking front, our most notable achievement was to do the walk from our village to the 5th village (a fairly easy 4 1/2 hr walk). The track hugged the coast and took us in and out of each of the villages - giving us a chance to see them first hand (not to mention sample the odd gelatti here and there). Although we enjoyed the walk - we declined the opportunity to make it a round trip - instead opting for a short ferry ride back down the coast to Manarola. We also did some shorter walks - including one back up into the hills behind Manarola which took us through the olive groves and grape vines being tended there - with wild red poppies flowering between them. The walks were great - and a good way to work off a bit of the last night's dinner.

The Cinque Terre was a very spectacular place with its colourful houses perched on rocky cliffs, the clear sea below and the step terraced hills behind them. Although we avoided the summer peak, the track was busy during the day - but early in the day and in the evening it was fairly peaceful and for people like us staying in Cinque Terre there was an opportunity to see it at its best when all the 'tourists' had headed home for the day. A very pleasant spot..... and not a bad destination for a week of rest and relaxation.
Unfortunately - before we knew it, it was time for us to move on - so the week of R&R would have to wait. Fortunately for us - the holiday was not over yet..... next stop Tuscany.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

sounds relaxing , after our stressful time in Paraguay we could well do with something like you have described.

were currently heading towards Salta. we´re taking an overnight bus.

mum & dad.