Tuscany - our home in Europe?

After a good dose of coastal life in Cinque Terre it was time to move onto Florence - the heart of Tuscany and home to great art and architecture - not to mention a food and wine lover's paradise.

The unobstructed view down the coast from our Cinque Terre terrace was replaced by a terrace with Florence's Duomo looming over it - testament to the central location of our apartment and home for the next week.

View of the Duomo from our balcony... no zoom.

I guess our stay in Tuscany can be divided into several categories:

Exploring Florence - its art and architecture

Florence is full of art and architecture. We're not huge on these things, but even for the unconverted like us, it was impressive. Most imposing was the Duomo... in the heart of the city. This is the world's 4th largest cathedral and took around 150 years to complete... a bit mind blowing for a couple of Kiwis from a young country like NZ! Its most impressive feature is its huge dome - 90 odd metres high - and after a steep and winding climb, it offers a fantastic view across the city of Florence and the sea of tiled roofs and terraces (including ours) below it.

Florence is also rich with sculptures - including many by Michelangelo. Obviously, the most famous of these is David. You see this iconic sculpture in many places - including the replica in Piazza Michelangelo on the hill overlooking Florence - but for some reason, when you see the real thing on display in the Galleria Dell'Accademia it is quite captivating. The detail and balance in this sculpture is incredible. As you walk around its expression changes - from a peaceful expression deep in thought, to something more like controlled anger. For the record - Michelle was most impressed with his butt - which apparently is pretty special.... she has photos.

We also did quite a few other galleries, churches and famous sights - all of which were interesting and impressive in their own way - but none of which could top David.

A wine experience in Chianti

After our first driving experience in Florence - it is fair to say that driver, navigator and passengers were ready for a drink - but it was only 10am. An hour to kill before our wine experience would commence - so we detoured to Greve in Chianti, a small town just 20km out of Florence - but which felt like it sat in the middle of the Tuscan countryside. Greve has two claims to fame: the local butchery (world famous in Tuscany - which was pretty cool) and as home to Giovanni da Verrazzano - the local boy who sailed from Europe and into what is now the bay of New York. More notable however (and particularly relevant to us) was that his family castle just out of Greve was then making table wine and now is a respected winery.... so it would have been rude not to take a look around......


We had lined up a tour and 5 course wine matched lunch at Castello di Verranzzano. We arrived at the castle to be greeted by Jillian our host. Upon realising we were Kiwis, she was excited to tell us that during WWII, the castle had been home to Allied forces - most of whom were from the Maori Battelion. Upon learning that wild boar roam the forest surrounding the castle - it made sense that they would have been happy settling in at this spot for a while.

The tour was very interesting - a good mix of information, history of both the castle and its owners and background on how wine making has changed from when it was first made at the site of this castle in 1100 to the 'Supertuscans' of today. The tasting and lunch were sensational.... Course after course of food - prepared mainly from the Castello's land - wild boar salami, pasta, roast pork, aged cheese with home made 15 yo balsamic vinegar and more, each matched with a wine.... all red, until the dessert and coffee when the local sweet white dessert wine and grappa appeared. A brilliant introduction to Chianti Classico wines - and some of the peculiarities and regulations the winemakers must adhere to - no irrigation, only planting on sloping land, just to name a couple.

Driving in southern Tuscany - Montepulciano and Montalcino

Not content with one (mainly) successful driving experience in Florence/Tuscany, we set off again - this time to the south of Tuscany and the two neighbouring towns whose names are synonymous with good Italian wine - Montepulciano and Montalcino. Building on our experience the day before, we managed a faultless departure from Florence and (thankfully) that theme continued for the day.

Montepulciano is a small hilltop village around 2hrs south of Florence. Its wine is very well known and highly regarded.... although I think our first taste of it was back in NZ when it took the form of a '1.5L Dirty Italian'.

We didn't get too caught up in the wine here - rather spent an hour or two exploring the hill top village, its narrow winding streets and practicing with the new camera.... even stalking an elusive pigeon which lived in the side of an old building.... the results... unimpressive... but we try. It was a nice place - obviously on 'a' tourist trail - but by no means 'the' tourist trail and certainly a good mix between tourist and locals going about their daily business.

From here we went on to Montalcino - home to the Brunello wines... famous, grunty and expensive Italian reds. Once again we explored - although here there was eating and a bit more of a concerted effort to explore the wines as well.

In between the towns we got to see first hand the Tuscan countryside - wild red poppies, flowing long grass waving in the wind, Cyprus trees, oil groves, grape vines, terracotta red buildings... everything you picture when you think 'Tuscany'.

Food and wine... mmmmm

Tuscany is known as a foodies paradise. There is no denying it - it is. A visit to the local market near Piazza Ghiberti (not the one for tourists) quickly evidences this.... all the normal stuff - fresh fruit, veges etc - but head inside and you are greeted by an incredible array of cuts of meats - many of which have been prepared to be cooked - chicken's necks stuffed ready for cooking (head still on), rabbit, the list goes on and on and on... so I won't.

We also enjoyed some fantastic meals, which we had at all sorts of different restaurants - swanky joints, small family run local affairs, deli come restaurants, small hole in the wall baguette bars. Too many good meals to mention - but here are some links in case you ever visit Florence.....

- Ross' favourite: A bit on the swanky side, but we ordered off an extensive menu, very little of which we understood (since it was in Italian) - but with some shrewd recommendations from the waiter ("Whose favourite response to questions about his recommendations was.... "You should" - in a tone that made you sense you would get your butt kicked if you didn't go with what he'd opted for)..... Anyway - I got lucky with a great meal. Bonus points for the complementary bottle of Lemoncello left on the table at the end of the night... my kinda place: //www.ristorantelagiostra.com

- Michelle's favourite: The Rick Stein/Jamie Oliver/Gordon Ramsey of Florence is Fabio Picchi. He is famous for not offering pasta (the Florentines believe that their mother's cook this best - so why eat it when you are out?), but this place shares a kitchen with his top restaurant - but you pay bistro rates... the food was the most interesting with items such as tomato jelly, stuffed chicken's neck, raw tuna etc........ delicious: Trattoria Cibreo.

- Hole in the wall bagels: Two guys in a shoe box of a 'kitchen' (more like a cupboard which opens onto the street). Choose your choice of fillings (I'd recommend the fresh roasted pork or fennel salami) and get it stuffed into a fresh warm bagel. Get yourself a glass of Chianti and sit in the gutter and enjoy. 3.50 euro for the pleasure: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/florence/D53840.html

- Family run place - Yum: Stumbled onto this place. Run by a wife (the waitress) and her husband (the chef) you know you are at a local favourite as you walk into this place. Starting from the complementary nibble (deep fried bread dough - a Tuscan favourite) through to the tiramisu the food was very very good - and incredible value. Bonus point for a limoncello to end: Its called - Icche C'e C'e.

- Castello di Verranzzano: the food on our wine matched lunch was amazing - but I have rambled on enough about this place already... so I will give it a miss now.

To sum up

We are enjoying a bit of a focus on travelling in Italy this year - and Tuscany is a real highlight so far. Like Argentina, it is definately a place that we can see ourselves returning to - perhaps for an extended stay at some stage. Fingers crossed, we'll be back.

Cinque Terre - The 5 Lands

More travel with Mum and Dad - this time we flew in to catch up with them as they made their way around Italy.

Michelle and I flew into Pisa and had a night there before we headed up to Cinque Terre. Although we had heard mixed (and mainly uncomplimentary) things about Pisa and its leaning tower - it seemed wrong to be in the city and not visit the tower - so we did.... twice. Once that night - to see it lit up at night - and again the next day as we killed some time before taking the train north. We did so with low expectations - but I think we were pleasantly surprised. Although we didn't go up the tower - it was an interesting sight and quite an unusual design (even leaving aside its angle). And with a small outlay of effort we have now earned the right to say 'we've been there' whenever we eat some tacky Leaning Tower branded pizza or pasta - priceless.

Coincidentally Sanjay and his ladies were also in Pisa also en-route to the Cinque Terre - so we managed to catch-up with them and sample Pisa's nightlife - which seemed to largely revolve around students milling about drinking in piazzas and on the river wall. Like any good student town - Pisa's kebab's did not disappoint - so after a bite and beer it was time to call it a night.

Cinque Terre is about an hour and a half north by train. We met up with Mum and Dad at the train station (where they had come in from Sienna). Unfortunately our train was 'retard' (late), but eventually we got there.

Cinque Terre is a great part of the world. Five old Italian fishing villages perched on the cliffs overlooking the Ligurian Sea. These days the area is a national park - there is not so much fishing and tourism is the main life blood. Having said that the area is still home to old Italians who work the step terraced hills growing artichoke and other vegetables - and most impressively.... wine!

Manarola - our place is the bright yellow one on the cliff

We were based in the second village in - Manarola. It was probably one of the smaller and quieter towns - but I would highly recommend it. The directions to our accommodation were to walk to the end of the street and our house was the 'last one before the sea'
(http://www.arpaiu.com/english.html). The instructions were no exaggerations - we were perched right on the edge of the cliff with spectacular views and an great terrace from which to enjoy a glass of wine and the sunsets in the evening.

"This retirement caper is not so bad after all"

By the time we got settled in we really only had 2 1/2 days in the area. Days were a mix of walking along the coastal walk that joins the 5 towns and relaxing and soaking up the sun. Despite the decline of fishing here, there was no shortage of great seafood - so dinners were protein packed seafood extravaganzas - washed down with a little bit of the local white wine.

On the walking front, our most notable achievement was to do the walk from our village to the 5th village (a fairly easy 4 1/2 hr walk). The track hugged the coast and took us in and out of each of the villages - giving us a chance to see them first hand (not to mention sample the odd gelatti here and there). Although we enjoyed the walk - we declined the opportunity to make it a round trip - instead opting for a short ferry ride back down the coast to Manarola. We also did some shorter walks - including one back up into the hills behind Manarola which took us through the olive groves and grape vines being tended there - with wild red poppies flowering between them. The walks were great - and a good way to work off a bit of the last night's dinner.

The Cinque Terre was a very spectacular place with its colourful houses perched on rocky cliffs, the clear sea below and the step terraced hills behind them. Although we avoided the summer peak, the track was busy during the day - but early in the day and in the evening it was fairly peaceful and for people like us staying in Cinque Terre there was an opportunity to see it at its best when all the 'tourists' had headed home for the day. A very pleasant spot..... and not a bad destination for a week of rest and relaxation.

Unfortunately - before we knew it, it was time for us to move on - so the week of R&R would have to wait. Fortunately for us - the holiday was not over yet..... next stop Tuscany.