Our big 2 week holiday had been much anticipated, but with a busy lead up to departure I left with little clue about what lay ahead (Mich: as per usual). I knew there would be some 'game park' action, some driving, good steaks, nice wine and plenty of time on the coast - the details however were less clear to me. Fortunately for me others had it all in hand (thanks Rich/Sel).
For those of you who are just here to look at the pics, I'll summarise: we had an incredible holiday which offered a little bit of something for everyone and which far exceeded expectations. South Africa has so much to offer and I can see us returning some day to experience more of it.
Kruger National Park - 'Big 5 hunting'
Rich (our host) greeted us at Jo'burg in a large white people mover that would be 'home' for the next 4 days in Kruger (a few hours north). Stocked with food and liquid we were set for some Big 5 hunting! The next few days would be spent getting up to be on the road at 4:30a.m. (Kasabian's 'Fire' will never be the same again), driving around the park in search of game, birds (yawn), not to mention antelope (last but not least Rich).
Highlights:
- By 1pm on Day 1 in the park we had 'ticked off' the Big 5: lion (3 females in the undergrowth on the side of a road), rhino (Mum, Dad and a baby on the road), water buffalo (a huge herd crossing the road around us), elephant (just off the side of the road) and leopard (on a kill about 20ms off the road). Job done. 5 shots required (whose idea was that?) - this Big 5 hunting is a piece of cake.
- Sitting in the car next to (about 5m away) 3 male lion on a zebra kill while 17 hyena surrounded them and our car in the hope of a tasty snack. The lion were not backing off one bit and while the highly agitated hyena waited they decided to snack on our car - partially tearing the number plate off (try explaining that one to the rental agency?).
- Brai'ing (the activity formally known as BBQ'ing). We were staying in one of the camps in the park in a self contained cabin. South Africans don't believe in the gas BBQ and so we watched and learned as Rich got the wood/coal fired brai going each night with great results (especially the butternut pumpkin done in the embers... yum!).
- All the sights. We were incredibly lucky with what we saw (partly we think due to the unseasonably cold weather). To list just a few of the sights: leopard in a tree (some of you may have heard about this already as Sel announced the sight at volume that could easily be heard cross border), elephant knocking a large tree over to get to the roots, lots of hippos including some out of the water, baby giraffes, warthogs, crocs, jackal, all of the the Big 5 numerous times (more shots? whose idea was that?), lots of birds and countless antelope - including the very rare sable antelope.
- Sleeping co-drivers (and driver), dissent from the backseat re: antelope, deep fried eggs for breakfast, good times with Gareth (or was it Grant, or Wayne or Graeme?), scenarios in the public toilets, the strange smell emitting from the boot of car, late night animal walks with chicken bones for props and the battle between photographers for the money shot.
Port Elizabeth to Hermanus
After saying farewell to Rich and Gareth we took a short and very bumpy flight into a stormy Port Elizabeth down on South Africa's southern coast. Here we picked up our white (all cars are in SA) Beemer (I know what you are thinking: tossers) and from here we would spend 4 days driving close to the coast to Hermanus - taking in the Garden Route as we went.
Highlights:
- Our accommodation in Jefferies Bay (Supertubes B'n'B) - pure luxury with an incredible breakfast. We all enjoyed being back by the coast after being landlocked in London for so long!
- An evening spent enjoying fresh wild and farmed oysters from the shell at the Knysner Oyster Company as sat in a rustic hut on poles over the water listening to live music, enjoying a drink and watching the sunset. Magic.
- Exploring Plettenberg Bay - a slightly upmarket but beautiful beachside resort town just east of Knysner.
- The start of the Otter Trail - a beautiful coastal walk which we did at pace, but which was great. You can do the full walk which is about 4 days (although 2 at our pace) - perhaps next time?
- Arniston - my favourite of the places we stayed in and a lot like Mahia in its feel. It had great pub down on the seafront where we managed to see the last 10 mins of the ABs beating England before retiring to our accommodation for our first 'solo' brai - which went far better than anticipated.
- The drive from Arniston to Hermanus - first stopping at a coastal reserve just to the west of Arniston for nice walk out to South Africa's longest uninterrupted stretch of beach. This was followed by an unexpected introduction to the South African wine industry at the Black Oystercatcher winery which we stumbled upon (and out of) en-route to Hermanus and at which we enjoyed a great tasting accompanied by a platter of local produce. Yum!
Hermanus and the wine regions
Our next base was Hermanus, famous for its whale watching, where Rich's family holiday home would be our base for a few days.
Highlights
- Night one - Fever in Hermanus - Brai on the rooftop deck, catching up on unconsumed Big 5 shots, Kings, Guess the Music, too much time spent in the 'bar', and late night swimming (for those allowed). Goodbye to Rich again - its safest when he's not around anyway?!
- Walker Bay and Bot River wine regions. Armed with a list of winery recommendations we set off into the nearby valley wine region to taste some beautiful reds (blends, Syrah, Pinot) and whites (Sauvignons, blends and sweets). The highlight was however Beaumont Estate in Bot River. At this family owned winery we were treated to an amazing tasting by the winemaker's wife, right through the whites, reds, sweet wine and even into the port! She took pity on Andrew (whose fever was still subsiding) and invited us to enjoy a swim in the dam on the winery while we enjoyed a chilled bottle of their rose. Probably the best experience we have ever had at a winery and one which for us summed up South Africa's hospitable approach to wine tourism.
- Whale spotting from the coast in Hermanus - the South African coast is famous for South Right and Humpback whales. During our time in Hermanus we saw plenty - they come in incredibly close to the shore, sometimes gracefully easing through the water, occasionally breaching right out of the water - spectacular!
- Steak at B's Steakhouse - just one of many beautiful and great value meals we ate.
- We also had a great day in Franschhoek (a nearby town which sits in another wine region) the highlight of which was an incredible picnic basket which we enjoyed in the winery in warmth of the South African sun. We also took in Elgin, another wine region en-route to Cape Town) - also very nice and where we were made to feel very welcome.
Cape Town - the final leg
With a week and a half under our belts we again imposed ourselves on Rich (and this time his family) in Cape Town. Here we enjoyed a fairly leisurely final few days.
Highlights:
- A drive down the coast to the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. Spectacular coastal roads, nice short walks, pretty coastal villages along the way. A great way to spend a day.
- A trip up Table Mountain - right from the ride up this is a breathtaking experience. While warm at the base of the mountain, it was freezing on top - but the panoramic views out over Cape Town and down the coast (where we had driven that day) more than made up for the temperature.
- Dinner at La Colombe - this is South Africa's best restaurant and happens to be where Rich worked part time behind the bar. We enjoyed a 6 course wine matched tasting menu which was sublime.
- Constantia - as it happened we were staying in Constantia another wine region! It would have been rude not to check it out - so check it out we did. It is most famous for its sweet wines, with some wineries boasting Napoleon (and now us) amongst their customers.
- The final supper - appropriately mixing the Brai with seafood (something which although not mentioned much above, was top notch in SA) and a very pleasant evening spent with Rich and family at home. A nice way to finish the trip.
As you can see, we had a fantastic time. It was great travelling with Andrew and Sel again and Rich was the perfect host and guide.
South Africa was a beautiful country. The extremes of poverty and the middle class wealth were marked and it seems will take a long time to bridge the gap. However, it came as a surprise to me how safe I felt as we made our way around the country and almost without exception, people were friendly and helpful.
The climate, scenery, food, wine, people and experiences on offer were fantastic. A taste of the lifestyle has left us looking forward to the return home to NZ even more!
