For those of you who want the abridged version - we had a fantastic week, kicking off exploring Porto and its Port Houses and then meandering on foot through the vineyards, olive groves, hills and valleys in the heart of the Douro Valley, while soaking up the Portuguese sun. Magic!
Porto - Getting our Port education
Our trip started in the city of Porto - perched on the coast in the North of Portugal where the Douro river reaches the sea. It is home to the historic Port houses, who are based on the other side of the river in Vila Nova de Gaia, the place where regulation once stipulated all Port must pass through for bottling and aging.
We had a very leisurely weekend here and wasted no time in up-skilling ourselves on this town's most famous attribute - Port. In fact, Michelle had purchased her first bottle of port within an hour of our arrival.
While here we visited both Grahams and Taylors and from tours and tastings developed our understanding of the distinction between the Vintages ports, LBVs, Tawnys and also the history of this famous wine.
It wasn't all about the Port though (well it sort of was actually), we also explored the historic centre, enjoyed tapas by the beach in the nearby coastal area of Foz and a beautiful meal at the Bull & Bear restaurant (not a English pub as its name might suggest, rather one of Porto's finest restaurants).
The train into the heart of the Douro
The starting point of our walk was Vesuvio, a tiny settlement in the far north of the Douro valley not far from the Spanish border. We took a train from Porto to Vesuvio and the journey itself was one of the highlights. The old train weaved its way along the banks of the Douro and at times it felt like you would reach out the window and touch the water (although this is not encouraged!).
We were the only people to get off in Vesuvio - at what could not really be described as a train station, rather a small shelter in the middle of nowhere on the bank of the river at the foot of Quinta do Vesuvio - one of Graham's most prestigious vineyards.
After an anxious wait (our hotel forgot about us!) we were put in a small dinghy and taken across the river to our accommodation. There was very little English spoken here but our hosts were very hospitable and treated us to a meal of BBQ lamb which was incredible and superb local red wine to wash it down.
Let the walking begin - Day 2
Thankfully we were eased into the walking with just 11.4km of flat or downhill ground to cover on the first real day. We walked along a dirt track with the river (teeming with fish) on one side and steep terraced vineyards and olive groves on the other. We were spared an incredibly steep walk up to the top of the valley ridge by getting a lift and then took an ancient roman track back through cork trees and more vineyards and olive groves as it circled back to our lodging.
The panoramic views of the Douro were breath-taking and it was a great introduction to the region. It was just us and the lizards as we wandered along the dusty tracks as I constantly reminded Michelle..... "not many tourists make it this far into the Douro Valley". We ended the day with a real sense of excitement of what lay ahead of us over the coming days.
At the end of the day we took the train back to Pinhao - the centre of the port trade in the Douro and were then driven high up on the ridge to Casal de Loivos - a small village overlooking Pinhao and the Douro valley. Our accommodation here was a complete contrast to the night before - we were greeted by Richard a butler like Portuguese chap who spoke impeccable English complete with toffy accent (although he did throw in a "You shit me well" here and there!?). We were staying in a house owned by the same family since 1658 and who make their own award winning table wines from the vines around the house (http://www.casadecasaldeloivos.com/uk/casa.html). The view from this property has been rated as the 6th best in the world (by BBC) and as we sat by the pool enjoying a white port and tonic it was hard to disagree.
Dinner that night was also a contrast to the previous night - this time sitting around a large dining table with the other guests being entertained by the owner (who kept planting seeds in our mind about giving up the walk and staying with him for the balance of our trip!).
Do you think we are lost? Day 3
For while there we did have some concerns we were lost and the maps and compass out, but as it turned out we were on the right route all the way. Thankfully, this was the only time we felt a bit lost and was a good reminder to pay attention - a tough ask when there was so much to see around you!
Alijo was the largest town we stayed in - in fact the only place that really felt anything like a town. We rewarded ourselves with a glass of chilled red wine and bag of crisps at Martin's Cafe on the way into town (the bill: EUR2.20... cheap cheap!). The afternoon was spent relaxing, complete with a visit to a local wine museum where we tasted the Moscatel aperitif grown from the white grapes through which we had walked that day.
Stuck in traffic - Day 4
We got an earlish start this day - with 16kms ahead of us. The first point of interest on the walk was the beautiful nearby village of Favaios. After exploring this cute village we headed out of town before stumbling upon an abandoned Quinta. Exploring the Quinta was quite surreal. A once grand manor house and buildings used on a vineyard, now derelict and overgrown (although still surrounded by a working vineyard).
Abandoned Quinta
We continued our walk passing workers in the vines, tending to the new growth - stopping as we passed to wave, pose for photos and (we think) encourage us to join them to help out!? We resisted the temptation to join them.
We sheltered from the peak heat of the day at a tiny local cafe in the middle of nowhere. The owners produced two chilled handles of red wine - they were enormous (I reckon close to 300mls!) for the grand sum of EUR1 each. Having slowly worked our way through these we set off up hill in the heat - unsure that our lunchtime refreshment would serve us well for the balance of the day!?
It was this day when we met our only fellow walker - and got stuck behind her for a short while. She was a local woman carrying a bottle of water on her head as we assume she made her way from one village to her own.
About 5 hours after setting off we arrived at our destination in the tiny settlement of Vilarinho de Sao Romao (north of Pinhao). Our accommodation that night was once again stunning (http://www.casadevilarinho.com/) - a restored manor house, complete with its own semi-functioning chapel built in 1462. After lounging by the pool and another tasty meal, we slept very soundly indeed.
The big day. Day 5
The walk this day was the toughest - but great fun. We covered 17kms (opting out of an optional transfer) and even though we had an early start, towards the end of the day the temperature was well into the 30s.
Our route took us through Provesende, the oldest settlement in the region and a world heritage site partly due to its abandoned manor houses, testament to its former glory. The church in the centre of the town had incredible gothic interior and music was being played over a PA system across town - our visit coinciding with a festival it seemed.
From here we had steep climb until we reached the highest peak in the region. Up there it was just us and a sole fireman manning the fire watchtower - positioned here to take advantage of 360 degree view of the region. Following a slow and rocky descent through fields of flowering lavender we arrived at Chanceleiros - which would be our home for the next two nights.
By this stage of the week the days were getting incredibly hot. Even the dogs took the opportunity to cool off in the pool before we enjoyed dinner looking out over the Douro river once again.
The taper. Day 6
With the temperature hitting 25 degrees by 9am we were thankful that today's walking constituted a 5km walk down the road followed by a winery visit at one of the Port houses Casa de la Rosa (most well known for its table wines).
Pinhao Station
After exploring Pinhao we also had a memorable visit to Quinta do Panascal (the flagship estate for the Fonseca Port label - part of the Taylors family of wines). Here our visit coincided with a visit by a large Portuguese family event. We were befriended by one of the family and he generously gave us a glass of the 1985 Vintage port he had just purchased for EUR120?! Just one of many examples of the friendly and generous nature of the Portuguese we met along the way. They could not do enough for us.
By the afternoon it was 34 degrees in the shade and thus the only sensible thing to do was relax in the shade by the pool, jumping in to cool off from time to time. The chef decided it was too hot to cook inside, so we were treated to an incredible meal of BBQ meats which we enjoyed on the al fresco terrace under old olive trees. A magic end to the trip.
This holiday will be one of our most memorable in Europe (and I'm not just saying that because I 'organised it'). We would thoroughly recommend the company we booked this through - InnTravel. (http://www.inntravel.co.uk/walking/guides/PO_douro.htm). We will always remember the incredible scenery and views, amazing food and wines, unique and exceptional accomodation, experiencing this rustic region steeped in history - and most of all the friendly and hospitable people we met along the way.
